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How to fit the doors and windows

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How to fit the doors and windows

You have the choice of fitting the doors and windows in two ways; either prepare the doors and windows as described in “Changing your window frames to fit the log thickness of your cabin” and build them into the walls as you stack the wall logs OR build the walls which automatically creates the apertures for the doors and windows and later on insert the doors and windows from the outside and fix the architrave and packers from the inside to stop the frames falling out.

Prior to fitting doors into the wall it is necessary to remove the tongue of the log below the door so that the metal threshold bar can sit on a flat surface and be fixed down by screwing. It is not necessary to remove the tongue from the log under windows.

Standard doors and windows are designed to open outwards; this ensures that they are watertight.

Standard windows and doors come with decorative cross bars pinned on. These are optional, so it is entirely up to you whether you leave them on or not. You may need to take them off for decorating and will need to take them off to fit double glazing.

To refit, position the vertical crossbar in the centre of the window and pin top and bottom, then fit each horizontal bar across making sure you space them equally and pin at the ends. If refitting after installing double glazing, the vertical bar only will need a small cut out to increase the step length and provide clearance for the glass beading in its new more forward position.

Double glazing

If you have chosen the double glazing option, the standard doors and windows will have been supplied pre-glazed with single ply glass and 14 mm double glazed sealed units will have been provided separately.

It is a straight forward task to swap the glass and can be performed at any stage really, sometimes after decorating if you are likely to splodge all over the glass!

Simply prise off the glazing bead from the outside of the door or window, ideally using a sharp chisel or a strong thin blade (that will not snap). Take care to minimise bruising of the wood.

Lift out original glass and insert the double glazed sealed unit.

Refit the beading in its new more forward position and replace the pins if necessary.

Refit the cross bars if required as described in the doors and windows section above.

Fit door & window handles and locks.

Remove the tongue of the log below the door

Remove the tongue of the log below the door

Fixing the architrave from the inside

Fixing the architrave from the inside

Windows shown with optional decorative cross bars

Windows shown with optional decorative cross bars


  1. DAVID May 24, 2011 at 7:25 pm - Reply


  2. Paula May 26, 2011 at 3:04 pm - Reply

    Hi David, you can attach shelves to log cabin walls as long as you fix them with care and allow for the natural movement of the log walls. For a more in depth explanation see our blog post Fixing shelves, furniture & equipment to log cabin walls – the do’s and don’ts

  3. Ivan Osborne August 2, 2017 at 6:03 am - Reply

    Our recently erected summer house, (fitted by a local company), has an 8mm gap all around the doors. I’m told that this gap allows for the wood to “move”, which of course I understand. The door hinges are not recessed. How should rain be prevented from colecting at the base of the 8mm gap and left sitting on the door frame please? There’s no storm guard on the threshold.

    • Paula August 2, 2017 at 8:24 am - Reply

      Hi Ivan,

      You really do need to go back to the company that supplied the summerhouse to you if you’re not happy. They will be able to advise and rectify any problems. Unfortunately we can’t comment on buildings not supplied by us.

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