Building a log cabin veranda

January 12th, 2011 Posted in DIY, Log Cabin Construction, Videos

Jan, 12 2011

2 Comments »

Laying out the veranda bearers

Building up the balustrade walls

Showing the sawn off log ends

Fitting the metal support slats

Laying the decking floor

Finishing off the balustrade

A veranda makes a lovely addition to any log cabin – a great place for sitting out or alfresco dining. A typical veranda is usually made up of the veranda balustrade and pressure treated timber decking floor. Here we explain how to fit one.

During the assembly of the cabin itself, you should already have sawn the ends off the second, fourth and sixth end wall logs to the front of the cabin. The cut should be made in the centre of the corner joint of the identified wall logs.

Place one of the pressure treated bearers and place it against the front of the log cabin. Place a second at a distance equal to the depth of the terrace floor, measured from the outside of the front of the cabin. Space the remainder of the log bearers equally between these two placed bearers. The number of bearers will vary due to the size of the veranda.

Before fitting the decking boards, ensure that everything is square by measuring the diagonals.

Consult your parts list to identify the number and lengths of the parts you will require. The drawing will show you the correct position of each log. Build up the wall logs as shown on your drawing. Screw the first half logs to the bearer to secure. You will notice that the side logs of the balustrade fit the location of the previously sawn cabin sidewall beams. Fit the two metal slats to the inside of the balustrade near to the cabin using screws.

Next, fit the decking boards. Nail the boards to every bearer, leaving a gap of 10mm between each board. You will notice that there are two lengths of decking boards supplied, fit the longer ones at the opening of the balustrade.

On the inside of the balustrade next to the front opening, you will need to fit the two support beams. Place these 95mm from the edge of the opening, one each side. Fix with screws into the wall beams. Next, the L shaped metal brackets are fixed next to the support beams, one on each side of the opening, and screwed into the balustrade and the decking floor.

And finally, fit the balustrade cover boards to the top of the balustrade using the screws provided.

Building your log cabin
Related posts -
How to build a concrete base for your log cabin
Laying out the pressure treated bearers
Building the log cabin walls
Changing the window frames to fit the log thickness of the cabin
How to fit the doors and windows
Gables and roof beams
Roof boards and rain slats
Fitting the roof insulation
How to apply the felt roof shingles
Laying the floorboards
Fitting the floor insulation

Construction, DIY, veranda, Videos

How to apply the felt roof shingles

December 17th, 2010 Posted in DIY, Log Cabin Construction, Videos

Dec, 17 2010

1 Comment »

Line up the starter strip leaving a 35mm overhang

Ensure a correct tiling pattern is achieved

Bend the shingle over the ridge and nail down firmly

The tools you will need are a hammer and a sharp knife for trimming. The shingles are fixed to the roof boards (or insulation boards if you have chosen the roof insulation option) with clout nails. 3 shingles make up each 1 metre shingle strip.

Prepare a starter strip to go along the eaves by cutting the flaps/shingles off the strip.

This should leave you with a rectangle which should overhang the eaves edge by approximately 35mm.

Secure them all along the edge using clout nails and cut off any excess at the end with a sharp knife.

First row

Starting at one end, take a full shingle strip and place it over the starter strip making sure you stagger the joints.

Secure with clout nails in the positions shown in the diagram. In the video you’ll notice our construction team are using a tacking gun. Both methods are fine.

Do not over hit the nails. The head of the nail should be flush with the tile.

Carry on along in a line with full shingle strips, butting up the joints. Cut away any excess at the end with a knife.

Subsequent rows

Line up a full shingle strip using the guidelines. Make sure your lines are straight and a correct tiling pattern is achieved.

Secure firmly using clout nails as you go. Again trim any excess. Carry on to the top of of the roof with the last course as near to the ridge as possible.

Ridge tiles

Cut each strip into 3 individual tiles as shown.

Bend the shingle over the ridge and nail down firmly.

Make sure the tiles are facing the correct way for the prevailing wind. Take the next shingle and overlap it on top of the first on. Continue along the entire ridge.

Building your log cabin
Related posts -
How to build a concrete base for your log cabin
Laying out the pressure treated bearers
Building the log cabin walls
Changing the window frames to fit the log thickness of the cabin
How to fit the doors and windows
Gables and roof beams
Roof boards and rain slats
Fitting the roof insulation
Laying the floorboards
Fitting the floor insulation
Building a veranda

Construction, DIY, Roof, Shingles, Videos

Fitting the roof insulation

December 16th, 2010 Posted in DIY, Log Cabin Construction, Log Cabin Insulation, Videos

Dec, 16 2010

1 Comment »

Fit a pressure treated border around the roof of the cabin

Fit a pressure treated border around the edge of the roof

The insulation lies within the borders with the plywood facing upwards

The insulation lies within the borders with the plywood side facing upwards

The insulation boards are easily cut to size with a saw

The boards are screwed through into the main roof boards

The insulation boards are screwed through into the main roof boards

The cabin should be completed to roof level with the roof boards and rain slats fitted. Do not fit the side, front or rear fascia boards yet.

You will have received extra materials as stated in your Insulation fitting instructions.

The pressure treated timbers are to provide a border down the front edge of the roof from ridge to eaves, down the rear edge from ridge to eaves, and all along the eaves. It sits on top of the roof boards.The timbers may need to be trimmed to length.

The horizontal member at the eaves is best fitted by screwing up from the underside of the roof boards. It should be positioned 20mm up the slope from the tips of the roof boards for a standard 19 degree roof slope (or 34mm for a 30 degree roof slope).

It is recommended that a vapour control barrier is laid on the roof below the insulation layer.

The insulation material is 50mm thick rigid urethane with a 6mm plywood facing. It lies within the borders, usually in portrait orientation, with the plywood upwards. The boards need to be screwed through into the main roof boards using 70mm screws. Each board simply buts up against the next. Some pieces will need to be cut and these may be laid in any direction. It is best to cut an angle on the uppermost boards so that the plywood meets at the ridge.

It is recommended that a breathable membrane is laid over the insulation before the shingles or other roof covering is fitted. This is usually included in the pack. It is essential to use such a membrane on roof pitches below 15 degrees but is generally good practice on all roof pitches.

Side fascia boards may be cut to the appropriate length of the building. They are fixed to the side of the pre-fitted border. The purpose of setting the margin timber slightly up the roof slope is to aid the positioning of the fascia boards vertically, rather than toeing inwards.

The roof is now ready for the roof shingles or other roof covering to be fitted.

Building your log cabin
Related posts -
How to build a concrete base for your log cabin
Laying out the pressure treated bearers
Building the log cabin walls
Changing the window frames to fit the log thickness of the cabin
How to fit the doors and windows
Gables and roof beams
Roof boards and rain slats
How to apply the felt roof shingles
Laying the floorboards
Fitting the floor insulation
Building a veranda

Construction, DIY, Insulation, Roof, Videos

Roof boards and rain slats

December 15th, 2010 Posted in DIY, Log Cabin Construction, Videos

Dec, 15 2010

No Comments »

Fit the first board at the front, the repeat along the length of the roof

Fit the first board at the front, then repeat along the length of the roof

Nail each roof boards to each roof beam and to the side wall as you go

Nail each roof board to each roof beam and to the side wall as you go

Before you start, identify the roof boards from the floor boards. Both of these are 19mm thick but will be different lengths.

Divide the roof boards equally and place ready either side of the cabin. Fit the first board at the front of the roof, lining it up with the edge of the roof beams. The tongue should face the direction of laying and with the decorative angled side down towards the inside of the cabin.

Nail each roof board to each roof beam and to the side wall as you go. Take the next board and make sure the tongue and groove fits together perfectly and nail down. Repeat along the length of the roof, both sides.

When you reach the last board, it may be necessary to saw it to fit. Measure the distance to the end of the roof beam, then saw along the length of the roof board and fix into place.

Note – if you have a cabin with a wide gable, you may find the roof boards are supplied in two lengths. In this case you will need to fix the boards in an alternating pattern. Start with long & short, then short & long and repeat this pattern along the length of the roof.

Fit the rain slats and nail to the roof boards

Rain slats

Identify the rain slats on the parts list. Sometimes these are delivered in two parts. Each slat has a groove pre-cut the same thickness as the roof boards and angled to equal the angle of the roof pitch. Fit the slats so that the roof boards fit into the groove, and nail through the roof boards into the rain slat.

If you have chosen the option of roof insulation, you will not need to fit the original rain slats.

Building your log cabin
Related posts -
How to build a concrete base for your log cabin
Laying out the pressure treated bearers
Building the log cabin walls
Changing the window frames to fit the log thickness of the cabin
How to fit the doors and windows
Gables and roof beams
Fitting the roof insulation
How to apply the felt roof shingles
Laying the floorboards
Fitting the floor insulation
Building a veranda

Construction, DIY, Roof, Videos

Gables and roof beams

December 14th, 2010 Posted in DIY, Log Cabin Construction, Videos

Dec, 14 2010

No Comments »

………………………………………………………………………………………………………….

Fitting the pre assembled gable into place

Slotting in the roof beams

Roof beams are fixed to the gable by nailing

Once you have assembled the correct number of log levels according to your plans, it will be noticed that the side walls are half a log higher than the gable walls. This is correct and is ready to receive the ‘gable’ to complete the wall log puzzle.

The gables are usually pre assembled and shaped to suit the roof style and prepared ready to receive the roof beams. These sections are heavy and will need at least two people to lift and locate into place. When the gable is inserted it is vulnerable to blowing or flopping over so ensure it is supported until you locate the roof beams into place to give more rigidity.

The roof beams are prepared with notches on their underside that locate over the gables at the root of their slots. The roof beams should be fixed to the gables by nailing. Make sure that the top of the roof beam is level with the slope of the gable before fixing in place as mistakes would be difficult to rectify.

Building your log cabin
Related posts -
How to build a concrete base for your log cabin
Laying out the pressure treated bearers
Building the log cabin walls
Changing the window frames to fit the log thickness of the cabin
How to fit the doors and windows
Roof boards and rain slats
Fitting the roof insulation
How to apply the felt roof shingles
Laying the floorboards
Fitting the floor insulation
Building a veranda

Construction, DIY, Gables, Roof

How to fit the doors and windows

December 13th, 2010 Posted in DIY, Log Cabin Construction, Videos

Dec, 13 2010

2 Comments »

Remove the tongue of the log below the door

Fixing the architrave from the inside

Windows shown with optional decorative cross bars

You have the choice of fitting the doors and windows in two ways; either prepare the doors and windows as described in Changing your window frames to fit the log thickness of your cabin and build them into the walls as you stack the wall logs OR build the walls which automatically creates the apertures for the doors and windows and later on insert the doors and windows from the outside and fix the architrave and packers from the inside to stop the frames falling out.

Prior to fitting doors into the wall it is necessary to remove the tongue of the log below the door so that the metal threshold bar can sit on a flat surface and be fixed down by screwing. It is not necessary to remove the tongue from the log under windows.

Standard doors and windows are designed to open outwards; this ensures that they are watertight.

Standard windows and doors come with decorative cross bars pinned on. These are optional, so it is entirely up to you whether you leave them on or not. You may need to take them off for decorating and will need to take them off to fit double glazing.

To refit, position the vertical crossbar in the centre of the window and pin top and bottom, then fit each horizontal bar across making sure you space them equally and pin at the ends. If refitting after installing double glazing, the vertical bar only will need a small cut out to increase the step length and provide clearance for the glass beading in its new more forward position.

Double Glazing

If you have chosen the double glazing option, the standard doors and windows will have been supplied pre-glazed with single ply glass and 14 mm double glazed sealed units will have been provided separately.

It is a straight forward task to swap the glass and can be performed at any stage really, sometimes after decorating if you are likely to splodge all over the glass!

Simply prise off the glazing bead from the outside of the door or window, ideally using a sharp chisel or a strong thin blade (that will not snap). Take care to minimise bruising of the wood.

Lift out original glass and insert the double glazed sealed unit.

Refit the beading in its new more forward position and replace the pins if necessary.

Refit the cross bars if required as described in the doors and windows section above.

Fit door & window handles and locks.

Building your log cabin
Related posts -
How to build a concrete base for your log cabin
Laying out the pressure treated bearers
Building the log cabin walls
Changing the window frames to fit the log thickness of the cabin
Gables and roof beams
Roof boards and rain slats
Fitting the roof insulation
How to apply the felt roof shingles
Laying the floorboards
Fitting the floor insulation
Building a veranda

Construction, DIY, Doors, Double glazing, Windows

Video of a log cabin build in Wales

November 26th, 2010 Posted in Log Cabin Construction, Videos

Nov, 26 2010

No Comments »

A very nice video taken by one of our customers in Wales and featuring our very own team of Keops builders. The log cabin is a Keops Classic Style measuring 6 metres by 14 metres with an off centre roof pitch and built to building regulations standard.

Classic Style, Construction, DIY, Videos

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