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EPDM rubber roofing system for flat roof log cabins

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EPDM rubber roofing membrane is the number one choice for low-sloping or flat roofed log cabins. It can withstand various climates extremely well and is easy to apply. Our system incorporates an integral gutter system hidden behind the deep fascia. The pictures below show a Moderna cabin roof with optional insulation.

 

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Fitting the floor insulation

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Floor insulation shown underneath the floorboards
Floor insulation shown underneath the floorboards

For a standard un insulated floor, the floor bearers are designed to run left to right across the building and at intervals of approximately 480-500mm centre distances from front to back. These bearers are supplied as stated in the cabin parts list. This method has open sides.

For the insulated floor there are some additional materials supplied, extra floor bearers and insulation boards.

It is necessary to create an enclosed void for the insulation material. The additional materials supplied will provide the floor bearers that run along the length of the building under the side walls. For them to fit, it is necessary to reduce the length of the original intermediate bearers by 116mm. Thus original bearer – 116mm ÷ 2 x side bearers = width of cabin. The additional material will need to be cut to the appropriate length of the building.

The insulation is 50mm thick foil faced rigid urethane boards. This needs to be cut into convenient strips to fit between all the floor bearers. The board may be laid in any direction and pieces may be butted together.

Generally it is good practice, although not essential, to lay the insulation on a plastic membrane (not supplied) and to sit the boards on thin packers to provide a small air gap beneath the insulation boards (if space allows within the height of the bearer).






Building your log cabin
Related posts -
How to build a concrete base for your log cabin
Laying out the pressure treated bearers
Building the log cabin walls
Changing the window frames to fit the log thickness of the cabin
How to fit the doors and windows
Gables and roof beams
Roof boards and rain slats
Fitting the roof insulation
How to apply the felt roof shingles
Laying the floorboards
Building a veranda

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Fitting the roof insulation

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Fit a pressure treated border around the roof of the cabin

Fit a pressure treated border around the edge of the roof

The insulation lies within the borders with the plywood facing upwards

The insulation lies within the borders with the plywood side facing upwards

The insulation boards are easily cut to size with a saw

The insulation boards are easily cut to size with a saw

The boards are screwed through into the main roof boards

The insulation boards are screwed through into the main roof boards

The cabin should be completed to roof level with the roof boards and rain slats fitted. Do not fit the side, front or rear fascia boards yet.

You will have received extra materials as stated in your Insulation fitting instructions.

The pressure treated timbers are to provide a border down the front edge of the roof from ridge to eaves, down the rear edge from ridge to eaves, and all along the eaves. It sits on top of the roof boards.The timbers may need to be trimmed to length.

The horizontal member at the eaves is best fitted by screwing up from the underside of the roof boards. It should be positioned 20mm up the slope from the tips of the roof boards for a standard 19 degree roof slope (or 34mm for a 30 degree roof slope).

It is recommended that a vapour control barrier is laid on the roof below the insulation layer.

The insulation material is 50mm thick rigid urethane with a 6mm plywood facing. It lies within the borders, usually in portrait orientation, with the plywood upwards. The boards need to be screwed through into the main roof boards using 70mm screws. Each board simply buts up against the next. Some pieces will need to be cut and these may be laid in any direction. It is best to cut an angle on the uppermost boards so that the plywood meets at the ridge.

It is recommended that a breathable membrane is laid over the insulation before the shingles or other roof covering is fitted. This is usually included in the pack. It is essential to use such a membrane on roof pitches below 15 degrees but is generally good practice on all roof pitches.

Side fascia boards may be cut to the appropriate length of the building. They are fixed to the side of the pre-fitted border. The purpose of setting the margin timber slightly up the roof slope is to aid the positioning of the fascia boards vertically, rather than toeing inwards.

The roof is now ready for the roof shingles or other roof covering to be fitted.

Related articles -
Technical information for roof & floor insulation
Wall insulation
The case against twin skin log cabins

Building your log cabin
Related posts -
How to build a concrete base for your log cabin
Laying out the pressure treated bearers
Building the log cabin walls
Changing the window frames to fit the log thickness of the cabin
How to fit the doors and windows
Gables and roof beams
Roof boards and rain slats
How to apply the felt roof shingles
Laying the floorboards
Fitting the floor insulation
Building a veranda

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Baby, its cold outside…

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Baby, its cold outside…but it’s very cosy here inside our cabin! We often get asked the questions, “how warm are your log cabins, can they be used all year round and what do you use in the way of heating?” Those who have visited us here in Evesham will know that our office is a lovely two bedroom lodge made from 56mm logs with our comfort grade roof & floor insulation and double glazing. I can tell you today it’s a chilly minus 4 outside but in here it’s very warm and cosy. We have a 3kw electric heater (that looks like a wood burner) and a couple of oil filled radiators that are on low in case of frost and that’s it. The cabin heats up quickly to a comfortable temperature and because of the natural thermal properties of the wood, retains the heat all day.

Our cosy Keops log cabin office in the snow

Our cosy Keops log cabin office in the snow

So why haven’t we got wall insulation? Yes, we know many of our competitors say it’s essential; one even states that if a company doesn’t offer it its because they haven’t got the expertise to provide a solution that works properly. This is true for some of the “value” log cabin suppliers who offer little more than garden sheds. However, in our case its because we only use Northern Scandinavian pine which is a very slow growing timber and very dense, with excellent thermal properties. Yes, we can (and do) provide an excellent wall insulation system that meets building regulations approval, and we could’ve fitted it retrospectively at anytime during the last six years we’ve been using the cabin, but we’ve never felt the need.

Anyway, the cabin’s warmed up nicely, the heaters are switched off and I may just remove my cardigan!

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