EPDM rubber roofing membrane is the number one choice for low-sloping or flat roofed log cabins. It can withstand various climates extremely well and is easy to apply. Our system incorporates an integral gutter system hidden behind the deep fascia. The pictures below show a Moderna cabin roof with optional insulation.
Mrs Woods was so delighted with her new Keops Two bedroom Lodge (and the construction) that she felt the need to send us a few pictures…
The Keops Construction Team
If you’d like our team to build your cabin for you, get in touch for a quote.
It's hot work building cabins...
A timber frame foundation
If you’ve long considered having a log cabin but have been put off because your garden is undulating or sloping, don’t despair. There are a number of solutions available for even the hilliest land.
A concrete slab is probably the best base if your ground is firm and level. However, this can be an expensive method and can look ugly if you need to build up the level to cope with uneven land.
Our office cabin here at Keops is a good example. From the back corner of our ten metre long cabin to the opposite front corner, the land drops away by more than half a metre. In this case a concrete base was an unsuitable solution, so a perimeter brick wall was built with a sleeper wall running up the middle. A grid of pressure treated bearers sit happily across this, providing a solid level base for the cabin and floor.
An alternative is to build a timber frame using pressure treated posts which are set into post holes in the ground and filled with concrete. You can see from the photo that this method allows you to build in quite extreme circumstances successfully. A typical structure would comprise of 200 x 75mm main timbers to from compartments, 150 x 50mm timbers on joists within the compartments at 500mm centres. The whole frame would be elevated on 150 x 150mm posts and lengths to suit the ground conditions and the whole top surface covered in 10mm wpb plywood under the cabin area.
Pile foundations are another method, either using bricks or blocks or pouring reinforced concrete. Again a timber frame can be constructed to sit on top of the piles, and the cabin built on this.
Whatever your ground conditions, we can offer practical advice and suggest the best methods to help you ‘cope with the slope’.
Laying out the veranda bearers
Building up the balustrade walls
Showing the sawn off log ends
Fitting the metal support slats
Laying the decking floor
Finishing off the balustrade
A veranda makes a lovely addition to any log cabin – a great place for sitting out or alfresco dining. A typical veranda is usually made up of the veranda balustrade and pressure treated timber decking floor. Here we explain how to fit one.
During the assembly of the cabin itself, you should already have sawn the ends off the second, fourth and sixth end wall logs to the front of the cabin. The cut should be made in the centre of the corner joint of the identified wall logs.
Place one of the pressure treated bearers and place it against the front of the log cabin. Place a second at a distance equal to the depth of the terrace floor, measured from the outside of the front of the cabin. Space the remainder of the log bearers equally between these two placed bearers. The number of bearers will vary due to the size of the veranda.
Before fitting the decking boards, ensure that everything is square by measuring the diagonals.
Consult your parts list to identify the number and lengths of the parts you will require. The drawing will show you the correct position of each log. Build up the wall logs as shown on your drawing. Screw the first half logs to the bearer to secure. You will notice that the side logs of the balustrade fit the location of the previously sawn cabin sidewall beams. Fit the two metal slats to the inside of the balustrade near to the cabin using screws.
Next, fit the decking boards. Nail the boards to every bearer, leaving a gap of 10mm between each board. You will notice that there are two lengths of decking boards supplied, fit the longer ones at the opening of the balustrade.
On the inside of the balustrade next to the front opening, you will need to fit the two support beams. Place these 95mm from the edge of the opening, one each side. Fix with screws into the wall beams. Next, the L shaped metal brackets are fixed next to the support beams, one on each side of the opening, and screwed into the balustrade and the decking floor.
And finally, fit the balustrade cover boards to the top of the balustrade using the screws provided.
Building your log cabin
Related posts -
How to build a concrete base for your log cabin
Laying out the pressure treated bearers
Building the log cabin walls
Changing the window frames to fit the log thickness of the cabin
How to fit the doors and windows
Gables and roof beams
Roof boards and rain slats
Fitting the roof insulation
How to apply the felt roof shingles
Laying the floorboards
Fitting the floor insulation
For a standard un insulated floor, the floor bearers are designed to run left to right across the building and at intervals of approximately 480-500mm centre distances from front to back. These bearers are supplied as stated in the cabin parts list. This method has open sides.
For the insulated floor there are some additional materials supplied, extra floor bearers and insulation boards.
It is necessary to create an enclosed void for the insulation material. The additional materials supplied will provide the floor bearers that run along the length of the building under the side walls. For them to fit, it is necessary to reduce the length of the original intermediate bearers by 116mm. Thus original bearer – 116mm ÷ 2 x side bearers = width of cabin. The additional material will need to be cut to the appropriate length of the building.
The insulation is 50mm thick foil faced rigid urethane boards. This needs to be cut into convenient strips to fit between all the floor bearers. The board may be laid in any direction and pieces may be butted together.
Generally it is good practice, although not essential, to lay the insulation on a plastic membrane (not supplied) and to sit the boards on thin packers to provide a small air gap beneath the insulation boards (if space allows within the height of the bearer).
Building your log cabin
Related posts -
How to build a concrete base for your log cabin
Laying out the pressure treated bearers
Building the log cabin walls
Changing the window frames to fit the log thickness of the cabin
How to fit the doors and windows
Gables and roof beams
Roof boards and rain slats
Fitting the roof insulation
How to apply the felt roof shingles
Laying the floorboards
Building a veranda
Lay the floor boards across the pressure treated floor bearers
Ensure the tongue & groove fits together perfectly
Nail each board to the bearer underneath
Identify the 19mm pine floorboards by their length. Start with the first floor board parallel to the wall of the cabin. Ensure that the tongue of the board is facing away from the wall. Allow a small gap to allow for the natural movement of the wood.
The chamfered corners should face downwards to provide a flatter top surface. Fix the first board with nails in each of the pressure treated bearers. Now take the remaining floor boards and fix them one after the other, making sure that the tongue and grooves fit together perfectly. You may need to saw the boards in places to fit around any strengthening walls. If the last board is too wide to fit, measure the remaining space and saw the board to fit correctly, it is best to not fix the last few boards until the last one has been sized and fitted in place flat down.
If the floor is long, the floor boards will be in two or more lengths. It is best to stagger the joint, so on the first line lay a short board then a long board and on the next line lay a long board then a short board. Continue the alternating sequence as you cover across the floor.
On the parts list find the floor finishing slats. These fit neatly around the walls, on the floor to hide any gaps between the floor boards and the walls.
Once the floor has been laid it is a good tip to cover it to keep it clean while you continue the construction.
Building your log cabin
Related posts -
How to build a concrete base for your log cabin
Laying out the pressure treated bearers
Building the log cabin walls
Changing the window frames to fit the log thickness of the cabin
How to fit the doors and windows
Gables and roof beams
Roof boards and rain slats
Fitting the roof insulation
How to apply the felt roof shingles
Fitting the floor insulation
Building a veranda
Line up the starter strip leaving a 35mm overhang
Ensure a correct tiling pattern is achieved
Bend the shingle over the ridge and nail down firmly
The tools you will need are a hammer and a sharp knife for trimming. The shingles are fixed to the roof boards (or insulation boards if you have chosen the roof insulation option) with clout nails. 3 shingles make up each 1 metre shingle strip.
Prepare a starter strip to go along the eaves by cutting the flaps/shingles off the strip.
This should leave you with a rectangle which should overhang the eaves edge by approximately 35mm.
Secure them all along the edge using clout nails and cut off any excess at the end with a sharp knife.
First row
Starting at one end, take a full shingle strip and place it over the starter strip making sure you stagger the joints.
Secure with clout nails in the positions shown in the diagram. In the video you’ll notice our construction team are using a tacking gun. Both methods are fine.
Do not over hit the nails. The head of the nail should be flush with the tile.
Carry on along in a line with full shingle strips, butting up the joints. Cut away any excess at the end with a knife.
Subsequent rows
Line up a full shingle strip using the guidelines. Make sure your lines are straight and a correct tiling pattern is achieved.
Secure firmly using clout nails as you go. Again trim any excess. Carry on to the top of of the roof with the last course as near to the ridge as possible.
Ridge tiles
Cut each strip into 3 individual tiles as shown.
Bend the shingle over the ridge and nail down firmly.
Make sure the tiles are facing the correct way for the prevailing wind. Take the next shingle and overlap it on top of the first on. Continue along the entire ridge.
Related articles
Felt roof shingles & other roofing options
A step by step guide to applying roof shingles
Building your log cabin
Related posts -
How to build a concrete base for your log cabin
Laying out the pressure treated bearers
Building the log cabin walls
Changing the window frames to fit the log thickness of the cabin
How to fit the doors and windows
Gables and roof beams
Roof boards and rain slats
Fitting the roof insulation
Laying the floorboards
Fitting the floor insulation
Building a veranda
Fit a pressure treated border around the edge of the roof
The insulation lies within the borders with the plywood side facing upwards
The insulation boards are easily cut to size with a saw
The insulation boards are screwed through into the main roof boards
The cabin should be completed to roof level with the roof boards and rain slats fitted. Do not fit the side, front or rear fascia boards yet.
You will have received extra materials as stated in your Insulation fitting instructions.
The pressure treated timbers are to provide a border down the front edge of the roof from ridge to eaves, down the rear edge from ridge to eaves, and all along the eaves. It sits on top of the roof boards.The timbers may need to be trimmed to length.
The horizontal member at the eaves is best fitted by screwing up from the underside of the roof boards. It should be positioned 20mm up the slope from the tips of the roof boards for a standard 19 degree roof slope (or 34mm for a 30 degree roof slope).
It is recommended that a vapour control barrier is laid on the roof below the insulation layer.
The insulation material is 50mm thick rigid urethane with a 6mm plywood facing. It lies within the borders, usually in portrait orientation, with the plywood upwards. The boards need to be screwed through into the main roof boards using 70mm screws. Each board simply buts up against the next. Some pieces will need to be cut and these may be laid in any direction. It is best to cut an angle on the uppermost boards so that the plywood meets at the ridge.
It is recommended that a breathable membrane is laid over the insulation before the shingles or other roof covering is fitted. This is usually included in the pack. It is essential to use such a membrane on roof pitches below 15 degrees but is generally good practice on all roof pitches.
Side fascia boards may be cut to the appropriate length of the building. They are fixed to the side of the pre-fitted border. The purpose of setting the margin timber slightly up the roof slope is to aid the positioning of the fascia boards vertically, rather than toeing inwards.
The roof is now ready for the roof shingles or other roof covering to be fitted.
Related articles -
Technical information for roof & floor insulation
Wall insulation
The case against twin skin log cabins
Building your log cabin
Related posts -
How to build a concrete base for your log cabin
Laying out the pressure treated bearers
Building the log cabin walls
Changing the window frames to fit the log thickness of the cabin
How to fit the doors and windows
Gables and roof beams
Roof boards and rain slats
How to apply the felt roof shingles
Laying the floorboards
Fitting the floor insulation
Building a veranda
Fit the first board at the front, then repeat along the length of the roof
Nail each roof board to each roof beam and to the side wall as you go
Before you start, identify the roof boards from the floor boards. Both of these are 19mm thick but will be different lengths.
Divide the roof boards equally and place ready either side of the cabin. Fit the first board at the front of the roof, lining it up with the edge of the roof beams. The tongue should face the direction of laying and with the decorative angled side down towards the inside of the cabin.
Nail each roof board to each roof beam and to the side wall as you go. Take the next board and make sure the tongue and groove fits together perfectly and nail down. Repeat along the length of the roof, both sides.
When you reach the last board, it may be necessary to saw it to fit. Measure the distance to the end of the roof beam, then saw along the length of the roof board and fix into place.
Note – if you have a cabin with a wide gable, you may find the roof boards are supplied in two lengths. In this case you will need to fix the boards in an alternating pattern. Start with long & short, then short & long and repeat this pattern along the length of the roof.
Fit the rain slats and nail to the roof boards
Rain slats
Identify the rain slats on the parts list. Sometimes these are delivered in two parts. Each slat has a groove pre-cut the same thickness as the roof boards and angled to equal the angle of the roof pitch. Fit the slats so that the roof boards fit into the groove, and nail through the roof boards into the rain slat.
If you have chosen the option of roof insulation, you will not need to fit the original rain slats.
Building your log cabin
Related posts -
How to build a concrete base for your log cabin
Laying out the pressure treated bearers
Building the log cabin walls
Changing the window frames to fit the log thickness of the cabin
How to fit the doors and windows
Gables and roof beams
Fitting the roof insulation
How to apply the felt roof shingles
Laying the floorboards
Fitting the floor insulation
Building a veranda
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Fitting the pre assembled gable into place
Slotting in the roof beams
Roof beams are fixed to the gable by nailing
Once you have assembled the correct number of log levels according to your plans, it will be noticed that the side walls are half a log higher than the gable walls. This is correct and is ready to receive the ‘gable’ to complete the wall log puzzle.
The gables are usually pre assembled and shaped to suit the roof style and prepared ready to receive the roof beams. These sections are heavy and will need at least two people to lift and locate into place. When the gable is inserted it is vulnerable to blowing or flopping over so ensure it is supported until you locate the roof beams into place to give more rigidity.
The roof beams are prepared with notches on their underside that locate over the gables at the root of their slots. The roof beams should be fixed to the gables by nailing. Make sure that the top of the roof beam is level with the slope of the gable before fixing in place as mistakes would be difficult to rectify.
Building your log cabin
Related posts -
How to build a concrete base for your log cabin
Laying out the pressure treated bearers
Building the log cabin walls
Changing the window frames to fit the log thickness of the cabin
How to fit the doors and windows
Roof boards and rain slats
Fitting the roof insulation
How to apply the felt roof shingles
Laying the floorboards
Fitting the floor insulation
Building a veranda
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